★ Smooth Ride. Straight Tracking. ★

Suspension & Steering Repair That Brings Back The Ride

A worn suspension doesn't just ride bad — it eats tires, wrecks alignment, and turns emergency maneuvers into wrecks. We inspect suspension and steering properly, replace what's worn (and only what's worn), and align afterward so your tires last and your vehicle drives straight. Part of the Supercanic network across Southern California.

Honest Diagnosis Written Estimates 12-Month Warranty OE-Grade Parts Locally Owned
★ When To Bring It In ★

Signs You Need This Service

Clunking or banging over bumps
Steering wheel off-center going straight
Vehicle pulls to one side
Excessive bounce after hitting a bump
Uneven or premature tire wear
Looseness or play in the steering wheel
Squeaking or creaking when turning or going over bumps
Vehicle bottoms out or sits crooked
★ How We Do It ★

Our Test, Diagnose & Repair Process

01

Lift & Dry Inspection

Vehicle on the lift, weight off the suspension. We inspect every ball joint, tie rod, control arm bushing, sway bar end link, strut mount, and bushing for visible damage, torn boots, or fluid leaks (on struts and shocks).

02

Loaded Inspection (Weight On Wheels)

We drop the vehicle and do a second inspection with the suspension loaded. Some clunks and creaks only show up under load. We use a pry bar to check for play in control arms, tie rod ends, and ball joints — the safe, correct way.

03

Road Test With Specific Focus

We drive the vehicle: does it pull? Wander? Bounce? Clunk on bumps? At what speed? On what kind of road? Documenting symptoms before repair means we can verify they're gone after.

04

Wheel Bearing & Hub Check

Sometimes what feels like a suspension noise is actually a wheel bearing. We spin each wheel by hand, listen with a stethoscope, and check for play. Catching a bad bearing now means saving the hub assembly.

05

Replace Worn Components Properly

Struts and shocks replaced in pairs (front pair or rear pair) — never just one side. New strut mounts and bearings if needed. Control arm bushings pressed in, ball joints torqued to spec. Sway bar end links almost always replaced together — they're cheap and they wear together.

06

4-Wheel Alignment

Every suspension repair gets a 4-wheel alignment after. Replacing tie rods and not aligning is how shops ruin tires and lose customers. We align to spec or to a customer-requested setup (e.g., slight toe-in for towing, performance specs for sport sedans).

★ Real Tools. Real Parts. ★

How We Get It Right

What We Use

  • Hunter Or Equivalent Alignment Rack — 4-wheel laser alignment with computerized targets and OEM specs for every vehicle.
  • Ball Joint Press Kit — Press in / press out without damaging the control arm — no banging with a hammer.
  • Spring Compressors — Internal and external spring compressors for safe strut work. Strut springs under compression are dangerous.
  • Pry Bars & Pickle Forks — For finding play in joints and separating taper-fit components safely.
  • Torque Wrenches — Suspension fasteners (ball joint nuts, control arm bolts, axle nuts) are torque-critical.
  • Pickle Fork Or Tie-Rod Separator — Proper tools for separating tapered joints without damaging boots or threads.

What We Install

  • Struts & Shocks — Bilstein, KYB, Monroe Quick-Strut (loaded), or OEM. Pre-assembled struts save labor on most jobs.
  • Control Arms & Bushings — Moog, Mevotech, ACDelco, or OEM. With ball joints pressed in where required.
  • Tie Rod Ends & Inner Tie Rods — Moog Problem Solver where available — they last longer than generic.
  • Ball Joints — Lifetime warranty Moog or OEM. Greasable where applicable.
  • Sway Bar Links & Bushings — Heavy-duty links for trucks, OEM equivalent for cars.
  • Wheel Bearings & Hub Assemblies — Timken, SKF, or OEM. The cheap ones howl in 20,000 miles.
★ The Supercanic Promise ★

12-Month / 12,000-Mile Warranty

Standard on most repairs. Parts and labor. If something we touched fails, we fix it again — no charge, no argument. That's how locally-owned shops have to operate.

Ready To Get It Fixed Right?

951 ★ 474 ★ 0744

★ Mon–Sat 7AM–6PM ★ 1685 S State St, San Jacinto, CA ★

★ Common Questions ★

Frequently Asked

Do I need to replace struts in pairs?
Yes — front pair or rear pair. A new strut on one side with a worn one on the other means uneven ride height and unpredictable handling. We replace in pairs.
Do I need an alignment after a strut job?
Yes. Any time you replace a strut, control arm, tie rod, or anything that affects suspension geometry, you need an alignment. We include it on most jobs.
How long do struts and shocks last?
Usually 50,000–100,000 miles. Heavier vehicles, towing, and rough roads (Hemet/San Jacinto backroads count) shorten that. If you bounce more than 2–3 times after pushing down on the corner, they're done.
My truck is clunking but the suspension looks fine.
Loaded inspection often reveals what dry inspection misses. Also check sway bar end links (the #1 cause of clunking nobody can find) and strut mount bearings.
Can you lift or lower my truck?
Yes. Leveling kits, lift kits up to 6", and lowering kits — we do them all with proper alignment afterward.
★ Related Services ★

Other Repairs We Do